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Maybe you should have welded the crack in the frame then cut a peice about a foot long and welded it in.Don’t want to say you did it wrong just giving my 2 cents.
then it deposites and you have to move or it there will be so much molten metal in the puddle that gravity takes over from the electric field and molecular attraction and splat look at that hole!
The movement from one side to the other lets the rod cut into the base and then drop metal on the bead which flows back into the base. you have a ball of iron plasma that is suspended in an arc kernal like a little sun in space and it moves within the arc kernal. it is molecularly attracted to the molten face of the basemetal away from the electric fierld when the base reaches critical temperature for penetration
on mig push to preheat the wire and build fast, drag for penetration. I was told always go from bottom to top. 1 pass light 2 pass heavy. 2 pass starts with a run up the joint to burn in the root it will look gloppy but it will close the root, it should make the v of what your welding look like an M. clean it and run up your finish pass left right left figure 8′s. your actually working 2 puddles at once that consume the metal from your 1st pass and they blend in the middle
I was welding with stick welders since I was a kid and guess I got the hang of it. I’ve got a buddy that can weld with a mig and it’s as strong as my welds with the stick, but I don’t have that ability yet.
i couldn’t get the hang of mig verticle and overhead. i could understand the principles in the books but actually doing it i couldnt get it. But when someone took my hand and welded up and overhead perfectly it’s like my hand knew it and taught it to me.
I’m having trouble welding vert and overhead. I can do it beautifull with a mig but the stick i keep thinking the slag is my puddle. I can’t see the arc kernal like I can with the mig. with mig I watch the plasma ball levitate in the field of the arc kernal and I can see the base metal melt and attract the plasma and can see the plasma deposite metal. with stick all I see is the flux.
Im not sure what type of HID kits my truck has… I bought them and had them installed on a audio world place all for 350$ Low beam/ High beam/ and fogs…But they are Plug ‘N’ Play kits.
HID XENON BALLAST use less power then standard halogen bulbs,unless you are using cheap chinese crap or usless relay kits which puts more drain on the system , oem hid systems are much better, they only suck up the power for a few seconds until bulbs warm up
I have a the stock battery from Toyota on my Toyota Tundra 2007 and I got 3 HID setups on it each ballast putting on 55W(just like halogen) I have them on my Low beam/ High beam/ and fog lights but everytime I turn on my low beam + fog light’s my Low beam loose ALOT of power specially when I use my high beam. So what do I need to change my alternator or a stronger battery?
I sucked at the electricity and magnetism side of physics but: v = volts, I = amps, R = resistance.
V = I*R or I = V/R. And since resistance remains relatively constant (I’m assuming it increases if the headlights are on vs off…) then isn’t the current output directly proportional to the volts anyways?
I might be off, I’m still trying to figure out why I can mess with a battery in the rain without fear of water connecting the terminal posts, short circuiting, and blowing me up.
lol their like, “sure, take one apart yourself! But, be careul because if it gets on you, it will eat through your flesh and bone and you’ll be in agonizing pain!”
I think it would help to track battery condition better if dashboards had ammeters rather than voltmeters. Last time I drove to the dealer with a worn out battery, it could barely make the engine idle on the way there. Measured with my VOM, it was 12.8v More people could avoid being stranded if they knew the problem was going to be current supply- not volts.
thanks for the tips i just bought a 220 amp alternator my stock was 130 amp and i got a optima yellow top everything fused and 4 gauge wired. my volt meter reads close to 15v.
depends on the battery…on average, anywhere from an hour to 2 hours…that is why you either want your battery being charged by your alternator (under your hood) or consantly being charged by a powerful car batter charger. (a good one will give 10 amps quickly, and will keep your bass running, without the battery dying. A nice car battery charger like that will cost you about $40)
you would want instead a stronger alternator and also capasitor will help. battery is mostly only used when starting the car and running lights and radio when engine is off.
i want to put a second battery on my suv cause i have alot of bass can u help me out. If i connect my amplifier straight to the second battery how long until it drains if i have the bass up loud?
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42 Responses to “Home made ratrod frame repair”
By BHBS661 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
i love your accent haha
By rpeek on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
@chuckdeville I agree completely!
By chuckdeville on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
love the banjo music, all how-to videos should be accompanied by banjo music
By berrija on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
torchman your a dork, quit reading out of a book on welding and get out there and do it!
By rpeek on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Yea, that’s the way we did it back in the woods…. hahaha
By ryde2idie on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
gotta love the style of a backwoods boy.
By rpeek on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Maybe. We’ll see..
By awamrblack on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Maybe you should have welded the crack in the frame then cut a peice about a foot long and welded it in.Don’t want to say you did it wrong just giving my 2 cents.
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
but with all the slag on top uf the puddle i can’t see what I’m doing
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
then it deposites and you have to move or it there will be so much molten metal in the puddle that gravity takes over from the electric field and molecular attraction and splat look at that hole!
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
The movement from one side to the other lets the rod cut into the base and then drop metal on the bead which flows back into the base. you have a ball of iron plasma that is suspended in an arc kernal like a little sun in space and it moves within the arc kernal. it is molecularly attracted to the molten face of the basemetal away from the electric fierld when the base reaches critical temperature for penetration
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
on mig push to preheat the wire and build fast, drag for penetration. I was told always go from bottom to top. 1 pass light 2 pass heavy. 2 pass starts with a run up the joint to burn in the root it will look gloppy but it will close the root, it should make the v of what your welding look like an M. clean it and run up your finish pass left right left figure 8′s. your actually working 2 puddles at once that consume the metal from your 1st pass and they blend in the middle
By rpeek on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I was welding with stick welders since I was a kid and guess I got the hang of it. I’ve got a buddy that can weld with a mig and it’s as strong as my welds with the stick, but I don’t have that ability yet.
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
i couldn’t get the hang of mig verticle and overhead. i could understand the principles in the books but actually doing it i couldnt get it. But when someone took my hand and welded up and overhead perfectly it’s like my hand knew it and taught it to me.
By torchmann4801 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I’m having trouble welding vert and overhead. I can do it beautifull with a mig but the stick i keep thinking the slag is my puddle. I can’t see the arc kernal like I can with the mig. with mig I watch the plasma ball levitate in the field of the arc kernal and I can see the base metal melt and attract the plasma and can see the plasma deposite metal. with stick all I see is the flux.
By rpeek on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Yep.. The Ho-Made racin’ team. What fun we had…
By dhswpea on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I remember learning to use those sticks.. Ho-made racin… that was a fun experience.
By disposablebook4 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
True enough! Ya only got so much money and ya can only spend it on so many things! But you always seem to manage to make the best of circumstances.
Kudos dude! Continue to love your stuff! You the man!
By edda520 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I don’t have a plasma cutter either. Nothing wrong with grinders and hack saws.
By 1963impala2dr on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
you are so right! I built a lot of stuff before I got my plasma cutter but its a great tool. maybe down the road…
By psychodelicdragon on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
looks great, good work!!!! good tunes
By CardDud127magik on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Its called a liquid electrolyte
By onionofdeath on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
@RoyaltyBank someones not racist at all!
By hearts2spooge on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
haha… Powerade symbols for electrolytes.
By Medic1911 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
@bpmagruder i think its “how do they do it?”
By bpmagruder on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
what show is this?
By JOVANI7919 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Im not sure what type of HID kits my truck has… I bought them and had them installed on a audio world place all for 350$ Low beam/ High beam/ and fogs…But they are Plug ‘N’ Play kits.
By daewooparts on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
HID XENON BALLAST use less power then standard halogen bulbs,unless you are using cheap chinese crap or usless relay kits which puts more drain on the system , oem hid systems are much better, they only suck up the power for a few seconds until bulbs warm up
By JOVANI7919 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I like my fogs with my low beam on, the alternator just got around 7k miles on it, but like FORDGTFANATIC said ‘get a high output alternator’
By JMF2479 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
an alternator, but how about you leave the fog light off?
By FORDGTFANATIC on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
get a high output alternator.
By JOVANI7919 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I have a the stock battery from Toyota on my Toyota Tundra 2007 and I got 3 HID setups on it each ballast putting on 55W(just like halogen) I have them on my Low beam/ High beam/ and fog lights but everytime I turn on my low beam + fog light’s my Low beam loose ALOT of power specially when I use my high beam. So what do I need to change my alternator or a stronger battery?
By Crash250f on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I sucked at the electricity and magnetism side of physics but:
v = volts, I = amps, R = resistance.
V = I*R or I = V/R. And since resistance remains relatively constant (I’m assuming it increases if the headlights are on vs off…) then isn’t the current output directly proportional to the volts anyways?
I might be off, I’m still trying to figure out why I can mess with a battery in the rain without fear of water connecting the terminal posts, short circuiting, and blowing me up.
By RednekDude15 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
lol their like, “sure, take one apart yourself! But, be careul because if it gets on you, it will eat through your flesh and bone and you’ll be in agonizing pain!”
By irocx29 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
Cool Shit to Know ty.
By 1027sterling on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
I think it would help to track battery condition better if dashboards had ammeters rather than voltmeters. Last time I drove to the dealer with a worn out battery, it could barely make the engine idle on the way there. Measured with my VOM, it was 12.8v More people could avoid being stranded if they knew the problem was going to be current supply- not volts.
By 8320884 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
thanks for the tips i just bought a 220 amp alternator my stock was 130 amp and i got a optima yellow top everything fused and 4 gauge wired. my volt meter reads close to 15v.
By UltiGamer101 on Jul 23, 2010 | Reply
depends on the battery…on average, anywhere from an hour to 2 hours…that is why you either want your battery being charged by your alternator (under your hood) or consantly being charged by a powerful car batter charger. (a good one will give 10 amps quickly, and will keep your bass running, without the battery dying. A nice car battery charger like that will cost you about $40)
Not bad for constant bass.
By crazycrowd818 on Jul 24, 2010 | Reply
you can buy a kit that would have both batteries connected to your charging system
By DeshGTP on Jul 24, 2010 | Reply
grrr explains volts but nothing about amps
By DeshGTP on Jul 24, 2010 | Reply
you would want instead a stronger alternator and also capasitor will help. battery is mostly only used when starting the car and running lights and radio when engine is off.
By 8320884 on Jul 24, 2010 | Reply
i want to put a second battery on my suv cause i have alot of bass can u help me out. If i connect my amplifier straight to the second battery how long until it drains if i have the bass up loud?